We got up and listened to more of the same weather reports and looked at our options for the day. The next marina was another 50 miles away in Oriental NC and the weather called for rain, small craft advisories and 15-25 kt winds. We then spent 3 hours deciding whether or not to leave! Finally, around 11 am we departed for an anchorage on Bear Creek, just beyond the Hobucken Canal, that looked protected. Part of the passage would include crossing the Pamlico River at the western end of the Sound. Local knowledge and cruising guides state that conditions on these waters can get quite uncomfortable in high winds. However, we are Lake Erie sailors! Compared to our run from Erie to Buffalo at the beginning of this cruise this little 2-4 ft Pamlico chop was nothing. Actually, today was a lot like yesterday......cold, grey, and windy with the same desolate surroundings. Tonight we are anchored (using our new anchor and chain!) in Bear Creek. The anchor is holding well as the wind howls outside. We are cozy warm, drinking a nice Malbec and hope to see the sun one day soon!
Jeff in Belhaven with his new "Pirates of the Pungo" hat. Thanks Don & Marjie!
Docked at Belhaven Waterways Marina
Heading out of Belhaven for another day of cold and grey.............
Neala navigating and searching for the next buoy
Jeff enjoying a hearty breakfast of oatmeal with apples, pecans and brown sugar - perfect for a cold day on the water!
Shrimp boats along the Hobucken Canal
Just more trees......
Sunday, November 18 - Sixty Miles of Root Beer!
Last night we had a wonderful, fresh fish dinner at the Coinjock Marina restaurant. Afterward, while walking back to the boat, we chatted with a few of the other cruisers. The current weather report is that there is a gale off the Outer Banks which would impact the waters we all would be traversing today. There was also a concern that the Alligator River Swing Bridge will not open if the winds are over 34 kts. Even lesser winds might keep it closed as the operation is at the discretion of the bridge tender. Also to consider is that there is no good place to stop on that side of Albemarle Sound. So, by leaving, one could be lucky and go through, or be stuck in a tough situation. This morning we listened to the weather reports and decided to go. We were not alone! Several other cruisers left that morning as well knowing we'd be delayed in Coinjock for a few days if we had stayed. And, as everyone knows, we'd sure like to get to a place where we can put away the ski hats!
After 15 miles of the twisty North River we entered Albermarle Sound with 20-25 kts on our stern. The ride across was swift and not great but not as bad as our trip from Erie to Buffalo by a long shot.
The water here is like Root Beer! There are no white caps, just "floats". This is due to tannins released from the roots and leaves of decaying plants.
These wonderful pelicans are the only indication we are south at all!
This an example of how we track our progress on the charts. Neala devised these handy little arrows from post-its so we can move them as we make progress.
A couple of hours later we passed through the bar and into the Alligator River where we were happy that the bridge opened and were glad we had taken the chance. After 20 miles on the Alligator River we had originally planned to anchor, but having gotten an early start, we were not yet ready to stop.
The bridge swings open 90 degrees allowing boats from each side to pass through.
So, we entered the Alligator River-Pungo River Canal - 20 miles of very desolate scenery. According to our Waterways Guide, this is some of the most remote areas of the ICW. For miles and miles the scenery is the same with the lone tree springing up here and there. It's pretty bad when one gets excited spotting the next marker! Actually, following our path on the charts is quite interesting and Neala is getting to be quite a good navigator.
Just 2 more examples of what we saw for miles and miles.
We had originally planned to anchor an the end of the canal, but decided to continue to Belhaven, NC where we have good friends from the Ashtabula Yacht Club in OH. Unfortunately, our timing was a little off and we arrived after dark to enter the strange bay and marina. (Neala had vowed not to enter harbors after dark after our NYC Harbor experience!) Fortunately, we had our trusty searchlight which we used to shine on the markers guiding us in. We were greeted at the dock by the dockmaster and our friends, Don and Marjie Stark who helped us tie up. Later we had a wonderful dinner at the Stark's home. Marjie packed us a goodie bag to take back which included Dove chocolates - yum! We'd like to commend the Belhaven Waterways Marina for an excellent facility and friendly service.
Neala, Jeff, Marjie and Don after dinner at their house. A nice ending to a very long day!
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