From Frost to Shirt Sleeves!

Just a quick note for everyone who has been following our blog.........We've been a bit remiss in our entries this past week! Not that we haven't made the attempt, however sometimes, after our long days, we just have felt like chilling or getting to know our dock neighbors, etc. Due to the nature of the ICW,  there is little time to relax as the markers are close together,  the waterway is twisty, there are the ever-present shoals to avoid and of course,  we must pay attention to the tides. We religiously use the Waterways Guide, Active Captain, Crusiers.net, Captain Bob, and the NOAA charts and have been fortunate so far. Although we have had a couple chances to sail, most of this trip has been motoring. Depending on location and time of day, we choose either a marina or an anchorage. Both have their own benefits although we do enjoy the quiet and solitude of a pristine anchorage. The salt marshes go on and on for miles and we can go for almost an entire day without seeing another boat. However, we do see a lot of beautiful water fowl and scenery. Today we saw white pelicans! Neala will google them as she does every thing else to provide us with our own National Geographic channel! And, of course, the highlight of any day, is having a dolphin jump alongside the boat.


November 25, 2012 - Frost on the Docks......in South Carolina???
This morning we awoke to 32 degree temperatures and frost on the docks - again! Not since Amsterdam, NY on the Erie Canal has it been this cold. The saving grace was that there was no wind and the wisps of mist drifted up off the dark waters of the Waccamaw River as we motored out of Osprey Marina just a few miles south of Myrtle Beach. The ICW was lined with cypress trees draped in Spanish moss with exquisite reflections in the still morning water. The waterway was very twisty for a while then it straightened out into a broad sound. We then took the Estherville Minum Creek Canal for some miles, then through the Santee Swamp and past McClellanville to anchor off the ICW at Mile 435.6 in 18' of water and lovely calm surroundings. Part of the day consisted of molasses-dark fresh water of the Waccamaw River and finally salt water again as we approached the Charleston area. We motored through miles of marshes for a far as you could see. The anchorage was tucked in among the marshes with only the sounds of an occasional bird call.

We have a new crew member! Flat Stanley - Jeff's grandson Griffin's Colorado school project-mate - arrived via the space-time continuum and was deftly removed from his carbonite traveling case and re-instantiated in our salon. After a short rest he joined us and began to immediately absorb the important points of sailing and navigating. What an enjoyable crewmate! He is quiet, kind and doesn't eat or drink too much. And, he is gifted as well!

Frost on the Dodger in Osprey Marina

Flat Stanley arriving via the space-time continuum...

 Jeff removing Flat Stanley from the carbonite transporter

 Flat Stanley resting comfortably after his journey through cyberspace

 Northern Lights easing back into the Waccamaw River from Osprey Marina

 Beautiful Waccamaw water reflections

 Flat Stanley learning to steer

Flat Stanley learning to navigate. He's truly gifted!

Panorama view of our anchorage-listen for the bird calls

Neala enjoying our late afternoon anchorage among the salt marshes

November 26, 2012 - On to Charleston!
We weighed anchor at sunrise to motor through Charleston harbor where we could see Fort Sumter off in the distance. We enjoyed the water view of the beautiful Charleston homes in the famous Battery section.  From there we motored to the North Edisto River and through North Creek to the South Edisto River. This, again, was through miles of marshes which included abundant water birds. We chose an anchorage on the NE side of the cut to the Ashepoo River where we were sheltered from the light breeze. This was a peaceful, pristine anchorage in 18' of water, very calm and not another boat in sight.

 Flat Stanley planning our day (trying to take over Neala's post)

 Ben Sawyer swing bridge north of Charleston-Flat Stanley's first swing bridge experience!

 Looking across Charleston harbor

 Wappoo Creek bascule bridge

 Another one of Neala's gourmet sandwiches, accompanied by cantaloupe, raspberries & pecans over romaine lettuce!

Peaceful, deserted anchorage on the South Edisto River

Another nice dinner... Everything tastes better on the hook!

November 27, 2012 - Hi Tina!
Today was another early start as we motored through the Ashepoo Coosaw Cut and up the Coosaw River towards Beaufort, SC. Still chilly with our full foulies! We needed to time our arrival in Beaufort with the Ladies Swing Bridge which was just  before the city. We were fortunate to arrive 15 minutes early, passed through and tied up at the Downtown Marina adjacent to and within walking distance of the historic downtown. Jeff's son Troy (who is currently working in the Philippines) and daughter-in-law, Tina, live nearby on St. Helena Island. Tina picked us up after work and we went to dinner at the Dockside Restaurant which was voted the #1 seafood restaurant in Beaufort.  Jeff ordered the local favorite, shrimp 'n grits. He loved it and Neala wished she had ordered it, too! It was great to spend some time with Tina and to hear about her Agility training with her 2 award-winning Shelties.

A cormorant drying its wings -  although they are water birds they do not have sufficient oil in their feathers and must hold out their wings to dry!

 Jeff, Neala & Tina at the Dockside Restaurant in Beaufort, SC. Jeff loved his skrimps 'n grits.

 Instagram shot of Neala & Tina at dinner

 Birds in a row on the Beaufort dock. 

 Northern Lights at Downtown Marina, Beaufort SC as seen through the moss along Bay Street

 Live oaks with Spanish moss

 They bring pretty big cruise ships up the ICW! This one was traveling from Jacksonville, FL to Charleston, NC

Neala by the Ladies Swing Bridge. And yes, it's "Ladies" and not "Lady's" like the island.

November 28, 2012 - We Get to Meet Fiji and Chanel!
This morning we had a nice walk into town for lattes and mochas in a cool little coffee shop along the waterfront. We then strolled along the main street window shopping and enjoying all the various galleries. This was Jeff's workday so he was busy on his calls and Neala did laundry. (How exciting!) Neala actually claims to like laundromats since all the laundry can be completed in one day. In the afternoon we went for a walk along Bay Street and admired all of the beautiful, old homes set among the huge oak trees draped with moss. Later that evening, Tina picked us up and we went to Barbara Jean's Restaurant where we ordered crab cake dinners to go. While we waited we enjoyed BJ's version of She Crab soup. It's been fun tasting all the different ways She Crab soup is prepared. We enjoyed dinner at Tina's and were especially entertained by Fiji and Chanel, Tina's two national class, Agility dogs. They were amazing! The evening was topped off by the yummy chocolate dessert that Tina had suggested we get at BJ's.

November 29, 2012 - On to Savannah
Awoke in clear, crisp air but a strong current made getting off the dock extremely difficult. Not having to worry about currents in Lake Erie, it is something Neala is getting used to as we head further south. Luckily, another cruiser on the dock assisted. We motored down the Beaufort River to Port Royal Sound where we motorsailed for the first time in ages. It was nice to see the sail up even though we still motored. More cuts, rivers and more cuts led us to the Skidaway River where we docked at the Isle of Hope Marina at 1400. Knowing we were very far behind on this blog, we had vowed to work on it before doing anything else. Well, that didn't happen! We realized we could take a the marina courtesy car for 2 hours so we drove 20 minutes into downtown Savannah and walked along the famous River front. Later, we got a ride from the marina dock attendant to the nearby recommended Driftaway Cafe. Upon entering, Neala recognized the couple who were in the boat docked behind us. The four of us shared a table and got acquainted.  We hitched a ride back to the marina with Ed & Mary Ann McChain who had taken the marina courtesy car. After dinner, they invited us to have after drinks on board their tug and to meet their two canine crew members.

 Ladies Island Bridge in the morning

Dolphins off of Dolphin Head, the ICW entrance to Hilton Head area

Two alligators conversing over the river....not! Acutally, Causton Bluff double bascule bridge

 Isle of Hope Marina, Savannah GA

 Neala on the Savannah River Street

 Chart House on River Street

 River Street Inn

 Flat Stanley on River Street

 Northern Lights at Isle of Hope Marina

 Live oaks with Spanish moss

 Nite nite under a full moon

November 30, 2012 - Hell Gate!
Got up earlier than usual so we could make a 0630 departure to make the 0700 opening of the bascule bridge 2.5 miles down river from the marina. We motored together with the McChain's in Thistle down the Skidaway River to notorious Hell Gate - a shallow one mile cut between estuaries. The cut proved to be a non-issue as we had planned our departure to coincide with high tide at the cut. On Sapelo Sound we hoisted sails to cruise in the silence of a 12 knot tailwind while we had lunch. Then the iron geneoa came back on and we motored again to anchor in the Duplin River near Doboy Sound.

 Early morning departure

 The McChain's Thistle

 Bascule bridge gear mechanism

 Something to avoid

 Ed, Mary Ann and their canine companions motored over to say hello

Neala's delicious apple crisp for dessert!

December 1, 2012 - "Hey, look! No gloves!"
Last night we only had to run the generator for a few hours and, when we awoke, it was a balmy 55 degrees both inside and outside of the cabin. Weighed anchor - clean this time due to a sandy bottom - and motored onward. Passed a shallow section with ease due to high tide then eased down the Little Mud River and into Altamaha Sound where we took a sharp right up into Buttermilk Sound and into the Mackay River, an estuary of the St. Simon Sound below tony St. Simon Island. Below there, we ventured up Jekyll Creek on the west side of Jekyll Island and into St. Andrew Sound. The passage here leads far out into the inlet and we experienced ocean swells for the first time on the ICW. The temperature here rose to a sweltering 74 degrees in the cockpit and Jeff got down to only a single, long sleeved shirt under his life vest for the first time on this trip! Proceeding up the Cumberland River, we motored to our current anchorage on Delaroche Creek just north of Cumberland Sound and - woo hoo! - Fernandina Beach Florida!

 Sunrise off Doboy Sound

 A bit later that morning

 Ship in St. Simons Sound, near Brunswick GA

 Same ship, up close with St. Simons lighthouse in the distance

Shrimper and its attending flock of gulls

 

Way out into St. Andrew Sound between Jekyll and Cumberland Islands